Welcome back to Bead Weaving 101.
Today, we begin our exploration into Herringbone Stitch.
We will begin with the basic flat linear technique, so that we can build a strong foundation and understanding of the thread path before we move on to the other forms of this stitch.
Herringbone Stitch is also known as Ndebele stitch, has been used by beaders for centuries.
It is highly recognizable as it stacks the beads, into V shape pairs.
The arrangement consists of columns of parallel lines, with all the lines in one column sloping one way and all the lines in the next column sloping the other way so as to resemble the bones in a fish, used especially in the weave of cloth or the placing of bricks.
Herringbone can be started using the traditional method, in which the first row of beads is stacked into the v shape, as you work the second row.
The stitch can also be started from a Ladder Stitch base, in which case the first row of beads are straight and not V shaped.
During the Herringbone portion of the series, I will focus on the Ladder Stitch start. In some instances we will use a two bead high Ladder and in others, a single bead Ladder.
See my tutorials for Ladder Stitch if Ladder Stitch you need help with these methods.
Tools and Materials
For this exercise, use two colors of the same size seed beads to make the thread path easier to learn.
Use a shorter piece of thread for practice, two feet should suffice.
2 colors – 11/0 or 8/0 Seed Beads
2 feet of Beading Thread
Size 10 or smaller Beading Needle
Scissors or Thread Burner
The Ladder Stitch Start
If you are a beginner, it may be easier to begin this exercise using a two bead high ladder stitch base.
I am going to demo the basics for you using a single bead ladder, but it can be a little tricky to hold on to for the first few rows.
Check out Ladder Stitch Basics to get started
As we talked about earlier, Herringbone is worked in linear columns.
Each stitch starts by picking up two beads and as you sew through the next bead, you will be stacking a bead on top of the column you started from, as well as the column you sew down.
Thus we need an even number of beads, to make up the length of the base row.
My base row consists of the following beads, ladder stitched together:
- Color A – Color A – Color B – Color B – Color A – Color A
Note the position of the working thread exiting the bottom of the sixth bead.
The base row should be reinforced before beginning Herringbone, and you can do this as you work or by stitching through all the base beads back to the first bead.
At this point, your working thread and tail threads will be exiting Bead 1 from opposite sides.
If you reinforce each stitch on the base row you can use the following steps to step up to the top of the row.
Pass the needle under the thread bridge between beads 5 and 6.
Pass the needle up through Bead 6 from the bottom to the top.
At this point, the working thread and tail threads should be exiting oppositely from one another. (My tail thread is pictured on the right, at the bottom of bead one.)
Flat Herringbone Stitch
The typical thread path of this stitch is as follows:
- Pick up two beads, sew down through the next bead.
- Step up into the next bead.
- Repeat these steps until the end of the row.
- Step up into the new row.
Now let’s take a look at the stitch in action.
For my sample, I will continue the same color pattern throughout the bead work.
I pick up two Color A.
Sew down through the next bead on the base row.
Next I make sure the two beads sit properly above the base beads, with the tops of the beads angled towards each other.
Without picking up any bead, I step up by passing the needle upt through the next base bead, Color B.
Pick up two Color B beads and sew down the next bead on the base.
Position the new beads and step up into the next bead on the base.
Pick up two Color A.
Sew down the last bead on the base row.
To step up at the end of the row, we need to reverse direction for a moment.
Sew back up through the second to last bead on the base. Be careful not to sew under the thread bridge above.
Now sew up through the last bead added, at the top of the first column of beads.
You can see that this bead is the last bead of the new row you just added.
Notice how the beads on the row we just finished, resemble the beads on our diagram.
The Remaining Rows
Notice that I have flipped the bead work so that I continue to sew in the same direction as before.
This is not necessary, if you are comfortable stitching the new row in the opposite direction.
For each additional row, the steps are basically the same.
Pick up two Color A.
Sew down through the next bead.
Position the two beads.
Step up into the next bead.
Repeat these two steps to the end of the row.
At the end we step up as follows.
Reverse direction and sew up through the second to last bead on the previous row.
Sew up through the last bead added as shown.
Of Note:
- Notice at the end of each row, that the new beads are not connected horizontally. This connection occurs as you add an additional row.
- Make sure the working thread does not get caught on the bottom or the previous column, as this will cause the work to twist.
Here is an older video available on my Design Channel on YouTube. I apologize that I haven’t been able to record anything new lately. Covid 19 has everyone out of work and stuck at home, for the time being, and it is really affecting my filming schedule.
This one is a little lengthy, my apologies, so just give it a few minutes to get to the actual technique.
I hope you have enjoyed this post. Stay tuned for more Herringbone Stitch variation tutorials coming your way.
Use the forms below or in the sidebar to follow this blog and subscribe to my newsletter for more.
- Odd Count Flat Herringbone
- Accelerated Flat Herringbone
- Flat Circular Herringbone
- Tubular Herringbone
- Twisted Tubular Herringbone
- Increasing and Decreasing
- Bead Variations
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