Welcome back to Bead Weaving 101. In this series, I am taking the basic bead weaving stitches, one at a time, and exploring many of the variations and options we have as bead weavers.
Understanding how these variations work will add untold value to our skills as jewelry designers.
In the last post, Creating Shapes, we explored using advanced tubular peyote techniques to create a 3D square.
Today, I will show you how to use a similar technique to create a bezel for a square crystal or stone.
Let’s start by looking at the materials used in today’s tutorial.
Tools and Materials
2 feet – Beading Thread
1 – Size 10 or smaller Beading Needle
Scissors or Thread Burner
1 – 12 mm Square Cushioned Rivoli
1-2 grams 11/0 Delica Beads
1- gram 15/0 Seed Beads
As you can see above, there are very little materials required to create this pretty bezel.
As we work along, I will give you some basic guidelines to help you when you are designing with larger or smaller stones.
Getting Started ~ Rows 1 and 2
As with any type of Peyote project, we begin by picking up the number of beads needed for the first two rows.
When you are working with tubular shapes, it is recommended to always start with an even number of beads.
For bezels, the beads picked up need to fit around the widest part of the object your are inserting into the bezel.
In our segment we will pick up five delicas and four seed beads.
Pick up this segment 4 times: Five 11/0 Delicas – Four 15/0 Seed Beads
Pass through all the beads again to form a loop.
To close the work and get into position, move through the first segment again, plus one delica bead.
Row 3
Begin Row 3 Peyote stitch using your Delica beads.
At the corners, pick up a 15/0 and sew through the two 15/0s in the center.
Pick up a 15/0, skip over the next one on the base and sew through the next Delica.
Continue peyote with Delica beads along the next side. Repeat the steps above at each of the remaining corners.
As you add the last bead of the fourth corner, you will do a step down into the first Delica bead of what is now Row 1.
Row 4
In this row, peyote stitch with only 15/0’s along the side.
At the corner, add one 15/0 as you go into the corner and when you come out as well.
Add the last 15/0 of the round into the Delica on row 3.
Make sure to step down into the first 15/0 added in the round before continuing.
Row 5
Begin Row 5 by adding the first 15/0 sewing through the first bead at the corner.
Without picking up a bead, sew through the 15/0 in the center of the corner.
Again without picking up a bead, sew through the next 15/0 corner bead.
Continue peyote on the remaining sides adding 15/0’s until you reach the corners.
Repeat the steps above to sew through the corners without adding any beads.
Add the last bead of the round by stitching through the bead on row 4.
There is not need to step down this time.
Check the fit your stone.
Row 6
Before we can being Row 6, we have to get into position by stitching on the diagonal to the outer Row 3 beads.
It is a little hard to discern from the photo, but my working thread is exiting the Row 4, 15/0 seed bead in the center of the two that are sticking out on row 5.
I sew up through the next two Delicas and the 15/0 as shown.
At the corners, pick up two 15/0’s and pass through the next 15/0 on the base.
Peyote stitch along the sides using Delica beads.
Add the last bead and step up through the 15/0 of Row 3 and the first two you added in this round.
Row 7
Now we begin to set the stone.
Place the stone in the center of the bezel and hold it in place as your work the row.
We are using all 15/0 seed beads in this round.
Along the sides you will peyote stitch through the Delica beads of row 6.
At the corners, you will treat the two center beads as one, as you add the 15/0 beads on both sides of the set.
Pick up a 15/0 and sew through the two beads at the corner.
Pick up a 15/0 and sew through the next Delica.
Note that I am holding the bezel upside down as I work. This helps me to hold the stone in place and to see the up beads that I need to stitch through.
You can hold the beadwork any way that is comfortable for you and that assists you in the stitching.
The last bead is added by passing through the both corner beads in the corner.
Step up through the first 15/0 seed bead added int this round.
Row 8 - Last Row
Peyote using 15/0 beads until you reach the corner.
At the corners, add one 15/0 bead as shown here.
As you add the last bead, make sure to step up into the first bead added in this round.
Reinforce by stitching through the last two rows of beads.
Optionally, you can also stitch Row 8 by sewing through all the corner beads without adding the 15/0.
You can also stitch to the back and and add a few more rows of 15/0’s to fully cover the foil backing of a Rivoli, to protect it from scratches etc,
I hope you find this tutorial useful. If so, click the Like button and share it with your fellow beaders.