Welcome back everyone. In the last post, we prepared the Fuchsia Navette crystals from Potomac Bead Company, for our bead embroidery project.
In doing so, I demonstrated how to secure a point-back stone or crystal to a beading foundation or interfacing.
In today’s tutorial, we will learn the basics for creating a beaded bezel in a bead embroidery project. We will learn how to begin the process to accommodate for a stone or crystal that has a point in its shape, such as these marquis shaped crystals. But the technique can also be used for other shapes, such as a pear or square.
I will also show you how to add a row of embellishment beads around the bezel. Once you understand that, you can add as many rows as you like in future projects.
But first, let’s look at the materials used for the remainder of the project.
Materials and Tools
You will also need Fireline or other braided thread to secure beads to the beading foundation. Nymo threads used in conjunction with thread conditioners will also work very well if you are careful not to snap your thread.
If you haven’t done so already, you will need to prepare the crystals for embroidery by following the steps explained in Part 1 of the Autumn’s Flame series.
Getting Started
Because we will be sewing through the interfacing to attach the beads, we will need to tie a secure knot on the end of the thread. The knot needs to be big enough so that it does not slip through the beading foundation as you begin to bead work.
I tied a surgeon’s knot first and then doubled it.
Row 1 and 2 - The Base Row
As you may remember from our basic Peyote stitch tutorials the initial row of beads picked up constitute the beads of Rows 1 and two. In bead embroidery peyote stitch, the beads of Rows 1 and 2 are simply just stitched to the foundation as the base row of beads.
The base row of Delica beads, will form an outline of the crystal.
Since our focal has points on each end, we will begin the base row slightly to the right or left of the stone. I am left-handed and sew to the right, so I insert my needle about2 mm to the left of the point.
One especially important point we need to remember is that the base row must consist of an even number of beads.
To simplify things, I will stitch two beads at a time for the entire base row.
Pick up 2 Delicas and sew down through the foundation, approximately a beads width on the other side of the point as shown.
The goal here is to have one bead fall to the left of the point and the other to position on the right side.
Sew back up through the foundation at the point of the crystal, between the beads.
To get into position for adding more beads, sew through the second bead you picked up.
For the remainder of the base row, we will add two beads at a time. Pick up two Delicas and carry them down to the previous beads. Sew down through the interfacing directly in front of the second bead.
Sew back up through the interfacing, between the two beads. Make sure that the needle comes up behind the beads on the side of the crystal as shown, each time you repeat this step.
Sew through the second bead to get into position for adding the next beads.
Repeat the previous three steps until you reach the point on the opposite end of the crystal.
At the opposite point, you will want to position one bead on the other side of crystal as before but remember that you need to keep the overall bead count an even number.
As you reach the end of the row. Pick up the last two Delica beads and sew through the very first bead of the row.
Sew down through the interfacing directly in front of the bead you are exiting.
As you reach the end of the row. Pick up the last two Delica beads and sew through the very first bead of the row.
Sew down through the interfacing directly in front of the bead you are exiting.
Sew back up through the interfacing a few beads back, making sure that you are on the inside of the beads, next to the crystal.
Sew through the beads back to the point of the cyrstal.
Sew through all the beads at least once, to reinforce the row, making sure the working thread is exiting the last bead added, on one side of the crystal.
Rows 3 and 4
Now we are simply going to do Peyote stitch for the next few rows, using Delica beads for rows 3 and 4.
Pick up a bead, skip over one and sew through the next bead.
Position the new bead above the bead skipped over.
Repeat these two steps all the way around the base row.
As you add the last bead of each row, sew through the bead on the previous row as well as the first bead added, to complete the step up.
Row 5
Stitch the last row using the 15/0 Stardust beads. As you work, pull the beads gently into position over the crystal to secure the stone.
As you add the last bead of this row, sew through the bead on the previous row as well as the first bead added, to complete the step up.
If you feel you need to further tighten the bezel around the stone, sew through the beads for row 4 and 5 again until you are happy with the tightness of the bezel.
Now that the bezel is complete, we need to sew down to the base row, so that we can add a final row of embellishment beads to our project.
Remember to stitch along the diagonal and do not skip any beads to avoid an exposed thread.
Sew forward through the Row 1 and 2 beads to the point on either end of the bezel.
Sew down through the interfacing and back up before beginning the row so that the first beads of Row 6 will sit correctly on the foundation.
Row 6
The sixth row is stitched exactly the same as the base row, with the exception of the beads. Use 11/0 seed beads in place of the Delica beads. On this row, however there is no need to have exactly and even number of beads.
Ending the Thread
Sew into the center of the interfacing, take a short stitch, wrap the thread around the needle a few times and pull into a knot.
Move to another position and repeat. Move away from the last knot and cut the thread.
Cover the Interfacing
Hold the scissors as perpendicular to the bead work as shown and trim the excess interfacing away.
Apply adhesive to the interfacing leaving 3 to 4 mm free around the edge, we will be sewing through the edge later on.
Adhere the ultra-suede to the interfacing and set aside to dry for 12- 24 hours. Trim off the excess once fully cured.
Below you will find the video tutorial for this portion of the project.
After that is a video that demonstrates the final steps of the project. I show you how to use Brick stitch to add the crystals which cover the edges of the foundation and the suede and then how to add embellishment beads and a bail.
I hope you have enjoyed this project and have learned the basics of a simple bead embroidery jewelry piece.
I plan to delve deeper into this technique a little later on this blog.