You are becoming such the Peyote Expert....
We have worked really hard getting to know all the wonderful variations of Peyote bead stitching.
I think it is time to step it up to the next level and learn to create 3D Shapes using Tubular Peyote.
The process is similar to working up a 3D peyote toggle hoop or circular shape.
The two most noticeable differences are:
- We have to create turning points.
- We will create the two sides of the shape one side at a time.
Most tutorials I have seen for creating a 3D peyote circle direct you to do the stitching back and forth between the two sides, in other words, adding a row on one side – stitching to the other side of the center – adding a row on that side and back again.
With other 3D shapes, we have corners or turning points to contend with, but luckily it saves all that time and thread needed to weave back and forth between the sides.
So let’s take a closer look at the process.
Tools and Materials
- 2-3 grams – 11/0 Delica, Toho Treasure or Aiko
- 1-2 grams – 11/0 Seed Beads (Corners)
- 1 Wingspan Beading thread
- 1 Size 11 or 12 Beading Needle
The materials are suggested for learning but are definitely not carved in stone.
You can use another color of cylinder bead for the corners, you can use 15/0 bead. The variations are totally up to you.
The setup - Rows 1 and 2
Here is the deal. the size of the beads as well as the number will have an effect on the size of your finished component.
The key to the initial pick up for rows 1 and 2 must have an even number overall.
Each of the four segments must start with an accent bead, in this case an 11/0 seed bead, followed by an odd number of cylinder beads, in this case seven 11/0 Delica beads.
Segment – One 11/0 SB and seven 11/0 Delicas.
Pick up 4 of the segments, pass through all the beads again to form a loop.
It is vital to the pattern, that you have the correct counts to each segment.
If you find that your stitching does not match the directions for row 3 exactly, take the work apart and start over. Don’t worry too much about it if that happens, we have all done it many many times.
Just shrug it off and try again. You will get the hang of it in no time.
Before beginning Peyote stitch, we need to close the bead work.
Pass through the first bead again plus one Delica.
In this project I do not recommend using knots as the work has a tendency to get very tight.
In advanced beading, is it recommended to avoid using knots except when ending off threads.
If you need help with controlling your tension, try adding a stop bead to the tail thread instead.
Row 3
Do three regular peyote stitches adding a Delica per stitch. Make sure your bead is positioned before moving on.
When you reach the corner, pick up tow 110/0 SB – skip over the SB and sew through the next Delica.
Repeat both steps 3 times. As you add the last 2 SBs, sew through the bead on the ring and then the first Delica added of the round.
Row 4
Do three more regular peyote stitches adding a Delica per stitch.
Add the last Delica by passing through the first SB at the corner.
Pick up two SBs and pass through the next SB.
Position the seed beads before you carry on.
Repeat all the steps for each remaining side and corner of the square.
Note that the next three sides will have 4 stitches of regular peyote adding Delicas per side. You will add the 4th Delica to the first side before stepping up at the end of the round.
You can save a little time by stepping up as you add the last bead of each round.
Just be careful not to skip the bead from the previous row.
As you may have noticed, as we work each additional row, the starting point moves closer to the first corner.
Row 5
Add another row identical to Row 4.
Note that the sides with have five stitches adding Delicas and two 110/ SB’s at the corners.
Remember to do your step up as you add the last bead to the first side again.
Row 6
Stitch the last row on this side of the square just as the previous row, except this row will add 6 Delicas along the sides.
When you get to the corner you will add only 1 SB to create a tip or point
At the end of the round, there is no step-up.
Next we are going to sew on the diagonal, down to the beads on Row 1.
We will build the second side of the square onto the beads of row 1 and outwards and upwards.
But first let’s weave into position.
Positioning
The easiest way to get into position is to sew through 2 beads at a time on the diagonal, working through the beads as shown below.
The Delicas of row 1 are the beads sticking out in the center of the square and we should be exiting the first sticking out bead past the single corner SB on any side.
Stitch down through the next two Delicas on the diagonal.
Stitch down through the next Delica and the next SB on the diagonal.
Stitch down through the next two Delicas on the diagonal.
Row 7
This row is the equivalent of Row 3 on the first side of the bead work.
The only exception will be how we handle the corners.
Take three peyote stitches with your Delicas. As you add the third bead, you will pass through the single corner bead.
Add another Delica coming out the other side of the SB in the corner. Continue peyote stitching with only Delicas for the rest of the row.
As you come out of the last corner bead, add the Delica to the row 1 base bead before stepping up.
I found it easier to do the step up after adding the last bead in the first few rounds.
I also found these first few rows were easier to work if I held the bead work facing down as shown. It was much easier to see the sticking out beads of the previous rows.
Row 8
Row 8 is the same as row 4, you will have 4 Delica stitches along the sides.
When you reach the corners, your thread will be exiting a Delica.
Pick up 2 SB’s and sew through the next Delica.
Continue on around the bead work adding four Delicas along the sides and two seed beads at the corners until the end of the round.
Here I am adding the last bead and stepping up at the same time.
- Work Row 9 identical to Row 5.
- Work Row 10 identical to Row 6.
On this side, we do not add the extra row. We will use the beads of rows 7 and 10 to close the work into the 3D form. Make sure to step up into Row 10 after adding the last bead.
The technique used to close the beadwork is referred to as zipping up the beadwork and it is easy to see why.
The zig zag, diagonal stitching and the position of the beads works exactly like a zipper.
If you have never zipped up peyote or if you are struggling with the process, try using some type of magnification.
I use the MagniPros LED Illuminated Headband Magnifier Visor with Bonus Cleaning Cloth and 5 Detachable Lenses for so many of my jewelry making tasks. You will be amazed how just seeing up close can improve your skills.
Zipping up or Closing the Bead Work
When you square is finished, the row 1 beads constitute the center line inside the edge of the bead work.
Because we have the extra row on one side, the beads of row 7 will constitute the center line on the outside edge of your shape.
Take a look at the outer edge of your work noting the position of the working thread.
In my work, I will be pulling the beads of row 7 over to the right, shorter side to create the center edge.
We do not add any beads during this process, we are simply stitching the two sides together.
We should know by now, that anytime we are moving through peyote beadwork, we stitch on the diagonal.
And that we work mainly with the up beads, the ones sticking up.
My thread is exiting the top of an up bead on the right shown above.
The simplest way to see the bead you need to sew through, is to drag your working thread straight across to the opposite side.
When I do this, I see the bead I need to sew through from the bottom of the bead.
Check your position and sew up through the Delica across the bead work.
Check for the correct bead back on the first side and sew up through.
Cross back over to the other side and sew up through the next up bead Delica.
During the next steps, it is important to note that my last stitch passed through a Delica on the left.
As I work the next step, I sew through the SB on the right. The tip bead is on the left again, and the final SB is back on the right.
If you are right handed, your path may be opposite mine.
As you reach the corner, you will stitch across and sew through an 11/0 SB.
Next you will sew through the tip bead, an 11/ SB we added in row 7.
Rounding the corners, you will sew through the 11/0 SB back on the other side.
My thread is exiting the SB on the right, I sew through the next sticking out Delica on the left.
Continue the back and forth, diagonal stitching all the way around the square.
Repeat the corner steps making sure to sew through all three SBs.
This is what the zipped up side looks like.
Notice how the beads from row 7 roll to the center line creating a nice edge.
As you finish the process, the bead work will get tighter and tighter.
Notice how the tip beads naturally create a possible connecting point to use your component in a project
To end the working thread, you can tie some half hitch knots, making sure the knots fall into place.
I prefer to weave the working thread back into the work, and reverse directions a few times to create a good catch.
Just remember to stitch on the diagonal lines and don’t skip any beads.
The zipping process is the same no matter what shape you are working on.
The premise is that you have an odd number of rows, so that the beads on one side are up beads, and the ones on the opposite side are down beads.
This is what sets the up bead thread path correctly for zipping.
Congratulations
You have created a gorgeous component using advanced techniques.
Next up in Bead Weaving 101, we will cover one last peyote technique, created a shaped beaded bezel using tubular peyote.
This project is another advanced project. I will show you how to create a beaded bezel for a 12 mm square cushioned Swarovski Rivoli.